Gloria Glam
Gloria Glam

POZDRAV IZ ŠANGAJA

Reinterpretacija kineske tradicionalne haljine ponovno je veliki trend - pogledajte modele u aktualnoj ponudi modnih brendova

Tipična haljina Kineskinja dio je šire, globalne modne priče jer se sve više pažnje pridaje sporijoj modi, kvaliteti, autentičnosti, ručnom radu, zanatskim tehnikama i odjeći koja traje, a qipao utjelovljuje upravo te vrijednosti

Anela Martinović PIŠE
Zara, nova kolekcija
Zara, nova kolekcija

U modi se sve više cijeni autentičnost, zanat i kulturna baština, jedan od najelegantnijih odjevnih predmeta svijeta ponovno zauzima garderobni ormar. Riječ je o dijelu kineske tradicijske odjeće - qipao ili cheongsam, kako ga na Zapadu češće nazivaju, koji dolazi u posve novom izdanju. ‘Kvaka‘ nije u doslovnom oživljavanju tradicionalne kineske haljine, već o profinjenoj reinterpretaciji njezinih prepoznatljivih elemenata kroz suvremeni luksuz.

Kolekcija Sheguang Hu
Kolekcija Sheguang Hu
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani

Njegova privlačnost krije se u savršeno odmjerenim detaljima: visoki ovratnik izdužuje vrat i daje aristokratsku eleganciju, asimetrično kopčanje ručno je izrađenim ukrasnim čvorovima, bočni prorezi omogućuju lakoću pokreta, dok uska silueta naglašava ženstvenost bez pretjerane teatralnosti - upravo su ti detalji ponovno postali sinonim za sofisticiranost, eleganciju i ženstvenost. Tradicionalno se izrađuje od svile, satena ili bogatih brokata, često ukrašenih motivima božura, lotosa, bambusa, feniksa ili zmajeva - simbola sreće, blagostanja, ljubavi i dugovječnosti.

Chanel resort
Chanel resort
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani
UMBERTO FRATINI/LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT
Skylence
Skylence

Njegovi korijeni sežu u razdoblje posljednje dinastije, Qing, kada su žene mandžurske aristokracije nosile duge, ravno krojene haljine zatvorenog ovratnika. Prava modna revolucija dogodila se dvadesetih godina prošlog stoljeća u Šangaju, tada jednom od najkozmopolitskijih gradova svijeta. Tradicionalna forma dobiva novu siluetu - prati tijelo, naglašava ženstvenost, dobiva elegantne bočne proreze i izrađuje se od raskošnih svilenih tkanina. Qipao postaje simbol moderne žene koja jednako samouvjereno prihvaća tradiciju i suvremenost. U ovo doba lani, u zagrebačkom Arheološkom muzeju bila je postavljena izložba ‘‘Qipao i šangajski stil života‘‘ na kojoj su posjetitelji imali priliku saznati ne samo povijest, već i značenje i društvene reperkusije tog odjevnog predmeta.

Maggie Cheung i Tony Leung u ljubavnoj drami ‘Raspoloženi za ljubav‘ Wong Kar-waija
Maggie Cheung i Tony Leung u ljubavnoj drami ‘Raspoloženi za ljubav‘ Wong Kar-waija

Zapad je qipao upoznao zahvaljujući glamuru Hong Konga tijekom pedesetih i šezdesetih godina, no njegov pravi modni status učvršćuju filmske dive i klasici sedme umjetnosti, kao što je ‘Raspoloženi za ljubav‘ hongkoškog redatelja Wonga Kar-waija koji je tu haljinu pretvorio u globalni simbol profinjene ženstvenosti. Kostimi koje nosi glavna junakinja Maggie Cheung smatraju se jednima od najljepših u povijesti filma i još su danas inspiracija modnim dizajnerima.

Top Pull&Bear, 22,99 €
Top Pull&Bear, 22,99 €
Prsluk Zara, 25,95 €
Prsluk Zara, 25,95 €
Košulja Zara, 29,95 €
Košulja Zara, 29,95 €
Mini haljina Zara, 35,95 €
Mini haljina Zara, 35,95 €
Sako Zara, 59,95 €
Sako Zara, 59,95 €
Mini haljina Reserved, 19,99 €
Mini haljina Reserved, 19,99 €

Od tada se elementi qipaa redovito vraćaju na modne piste, svaki put u novoj interpretaciji pa zato ovaj trend djeluje elegantno i suvremeno, a ne kostimirano. Primjerice, u aktualnoj kolekciji kuće Christian Dior vladaju arhitektonske linije i profinjeni ovratnici, u Valentinu koriste raskošne svilene tkanine i bogate cvjetne motive, dok se u Gucciju rado poigravaju retro interpretacijama šangajskog glamura.

Kim Kardashian u vintage haljini Christian Dior iz 1997. koju je kreirao John Galliano
Kim Kardashian u vintage haljini Christian Dior iz 1997. koju je kreirao John Galliano
Američka glumica Avantika Vandanapu u kreaciji Sau Lee
Američka glumica Avantika Vandanapu u kreaciji Sau Lee

A iznad svih su kolekcije brenda Giorgio Armani jer se taj talijanski dizajner često nadahnjivao estetikom dalekog Istoka. Posebno zanimljive kolekcije stvaraju i suvremeni kineski dizajneri poput Shuting Qiu, Susan Fang, Marka Gonga i Uma Wanga, koji tradicionalnu estetiku pretvaraju u potpuno novu modnu priču.

Košulja Bershka, 19,99 €
Košulja Bershka, 19,99 €
SHANGHAI, June 6, 2023 -- This photo taken on May 30, 2023 shows cheongsams at Longfeng Cheongsam store in east China‘s Shanghai. Cheongsam, or Qipao, is a traditional wearing of Chinese women which takes inspiration from the ethnic clothing of Manchu people. Evolving with the time, it nowadays represents a new fashion for Chinese women who value the tradition and elegance. As a representative of Shanghai-style cheongsam which emphasizes the beauty of woman‘s curve, the Longfeng cheongsam traces back to the reign of China‘s Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong (1736-1795). In 2011, the hand-making crafts of Longfeng cheongsam was listed as one of the national-level intangible cultural heritages. In the same year, the Longfeng cheongsam amazed the whole world during an international cultural heritage expo held at the Louvre Museum in Paris. Longfeng cheongsam mainly has nine crafts, namely inlaying pieces, rimming the inlaid pieces, making fringes, sewing curving lines, embroidering, painting, hollowing, carving, and making knot buttons. The knot buttons of Longfeng cheongsam are famous for their exquisite crafts and distinctive styles. Nowadays they are not only a decoration part on the dress, but also independent artworks that showcase the traditional and modern culture. Jiang Manzong, born in 1966 in Jingjiang City of east China‘s Jiangsu Province, is the fourth-generation inheritor of the hand-making crafts of Longfeng cheongsam. Jiang has been engaging in making Chinese costume and cheongsam for nearly 40 years since 1984 when he began to work in Longfeng after graduating from high school. In order to stick out from the crowd, he continuously practiced the crafts until late at night and often hurt himself with the needle. Three years of being apprentice allowed him with skillful handwork. ”The workshop at that time usually ran out of light, but I can make the same work even in dark thanks to my arduous practice, ” said Jiang Manzong. One treasure in his store, a cheongsam called ”Jixiang Ruyi”, is his most satisfied work which embodies seven of the nine crafts of Longfeng cheongsam. The artwork is now one of the collections at the China National Silk Museum and is the main dress to go on exhibitions at home and abroad. Nowadays, Zhang Qinwei and Wu Yuting, two apprentices of Jiang Manzong, have become the fifth-generation inheritor of Longfeng cheongsam. In order to promote the cheongsam culture, Jiang also brings his apprentices to take part in events in communities, schools and cultural centers. He cooperates with Qingyun Middle School to give knot button classes for students every term. Moreover, a Longfeng cultural and creative team led by Jiang seeks for cooperation with various professions, making handmade artworks based on intangible cultural heritages. Jiang said he often met people who lack confidence in their figures as to wearing a cheongsam, and he told them that everyone could wear a cheongsam in his guidance and with his professional crafts. ”I hope that more people will get to know Longfeng cheongsam, and our traditional culture,” said Jiang Manzong, ”It is said that a woman forever lacks a clothing at her wardrobe, and I hope it will be the cheongsam.”,Image: 781770376, License: Rights-managed, Restrictions:, Model Release: no, Credit line: Liu Ying/Xinhua News/Profimedia
SHANGHAI, June 6, 2023 -- This photo taken on May 30, 2023 shows cheongsams at Longfeng Cheongsam store in east China‘s Shanghai. Cheongsam, or Qipao, is a traditional wearing of Chinese women which takes inspiration from the ethnic clothing of Manchu people. Evolving with the time, it nowadays represents a new fashion for Chinese women who value the tradition and elegance. As a representative of Shanghai-style cheongsam which emphasizes the beauty of woman‘s curve, the Longfeng cheongsam traces back to the reign of China‘s Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong (1736-1795). In 2011, the hand-making crafts of Longfeng cheongsam was listed as one of the national-level intangible cultural heritages. In the same year, the Longfeng cheongsam amazed the whole world during an international cultural heritage expo held at the Louvre Museum in Paris. Longfeng cheongsam mainly has nine crafts, namely inlaying pieces, rimming the inlaid pieces, making fringes, sewing curving lines, embroidering, painting, hollowing, carving, and making knot buttons. The knot buttons of Longfeng cheongsam are famous for their exquisite crafts and distinctive styles. Nowadays they are not only a decoration part on the dress, but also independent artworks that showcase the traditional and modern culture. Jiang Manzong, born in 1966 in Jingjiang City of east China‘s Jiangsu Province, is the fourth-generation inheritor of the hand-making crafts of Longfeng cheongsam. Jiang has been engaging in making Chinese costume and cheongsam for nearly 40 years since 1984 when he began to work in Longfeng after graduating from high school. In order to stick out from the crowd, he continuously practiced the crafts until late at night and often hurt himself with the needle. Three years of being apprentice allowed him with skillful handwork. ”The workshop at that time usually ran out of light, but I can make the same work even in dark thanks to my arduous practice, ” said Jiang Manzong. One treasure in his store, a cheongsam called ”Jixiang Ruyi”, is his most satisfied work which embodies seven of the nine crafts of Longfeng cheongsam. The artwork is now one of the collections at the China National Silk Museum and is the main dress to go on exhibitions at home and abroad. Nowadays, Zhang Qinwei and Wu Yuting, two apprentices of Jiang Manzong, have become the fifth-generation inheritor of Longfeng cheongsam. In order to promote the cheongsam culture, Jiang also brings his apprentices to take part in events in communities, schools and cultural centers. He cooperates with Qingyun Middle School to give knot button classes for students every term. Moreover, a Longfeng cultural and creative team led by Jiang seeks for cooperation with various professions, making handmade artworks based on intangible cultural heritages. Jiang said he often met people who lack confidence in their figures as to wearing a cheongsam, and he told them that everyone could wear a cheongsam in his guidance and with his professional crafts. ”I hope that more people will get to know Longfeng cheongsam, and our traditional culture,” said Jiang Manzong, ”It is said that a woman forever lacks a clothing at her wardrobe, and I hope it will be the cheongsam.”,Image: 781770376, License: Rights-managed, Restrictions:, Model Release: no, Credit line: Liu Ying/Xinhua News/Profimedia
Moda qipao kulturna baština ženska elegancija kineska tradicija daleki istok cheongsam luksuzna odjeća modna povijest modni trendovi suvremeni dizajn Trendovi
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